Hell On Wheels

No pictures this post, just a story.

Yesterday we decided to try out the bicycles. We had figured out a scheme for this, with Benna riding on the back of one bike, Jana riding solo, and Aleeza on the small bike. We found the bikes OK in the huge bike garage, and all seemed fine except that the wheels were all a bit soft. I had noticed several bike shops the previous night along a major nearby street, so we made our way there first.

Let me mention here that like most Japanese cities, Kyoto is primarily composed of hundreds of very small streets, some no more than alleys. Cars sometimes drive through, even small trucks, but they are very narrow. We started off toward the bike shop through some of these alleys and managed to find it. They happily pumped our tires, and we were on our way.

For the next segment of the ride we had to stick to major roads, That was a bit scary because were were still getting the feel for these bikes, Aleeza is not that strong on two wheels yet, and I was balancing Benna. Also, the sidewalks are teeming with people and bikes going both directions. But we managed, and before long we reached the Imperial Palace grounds, where we were able to pedal on the gravel paths without fear of cars or bikes or people as the place was pretty deserted.

So we only had to worry about the heat! In our enthusiasm to get out in the morning, we had neglected to pack much water and we didn't put on sunscreen at all. (Most Japanese people don't use sunscreen, by the way, they wear long sleeves and pants and hats. There are many products for sun, lightweight arm coverings, etc.) So we sweated and burned our way across the palace grounds and emerged in the "heart" of downtown Kyoto.

From there we followed mostly large boulevards down toward our destination, the Costume Museum. Actually we tried some small streets but found it difficult because of the many obstructions and the lack of anywhere to turn when a person or vehicle was approaching. Anyway we managed OK on the big sidewalks and got to the museum.

Jana and Aleeza had already visited this place, so I went in with the girls while Jana walked around outside to avoid paying 7 bucks to see a very small (two rooms) museum. Half an hour later, we met up outside. It was really hot at this point, so we cooled off in a convenience store with ice cream and sat in the air conditioning for quite a while.

So at that point it was like 4pm, rush hour traffic is starting to build up, and we are at the maximum distance from the apartment. Between us and "home" is a ride through the business district. We get ourselves organized and start the ride, and Jana comments that "it feels like we are riding uphill." I laugh this comment off, thinking it is psychological. A few minutes later we stop to get our bearings and she again says that it feels much harder this time. I look at her bike and see that her rear tire is totally flat, and the tire itself has been torn up pretty badly. OH NO!
realize that we are now in a part of town dominated by huge bank buildings and department stores. It is not the University area where we easily found bike shops that morning. It is almost 4:30, traffic is unbelievable, the kids are hungry and tired.....you get the picture!

We parked the bikes and split up. Jana took the girls to find food, I took myself to find a bike shop. After about half an hour of searching, I went into the lobby of a luxury hotel and acted like a guest, which wasn't too hard, and asked for advice on a bike shop. All went well until the clerk asked for my room number, and I told him I wasn't a guest. He did the "tilting the head sucking air between the teeth" thing which is a form of saying "NO!" in Japanese. But he did me a favor and found a bike shop, called them, and made me a map. I recovered the bike and brought it to the shop which was about half a mile away.

After much deliberation, the shop guys took the bike and handed me a phone. A woman at the other end spoke some English, so I explained the situation. She talked to the shop guy, and he hung up, wheeled my bike to the back, and wheeled a rental bike out to the front. He took my phone number and waved me goodbye. So, all was well!

Well, the bike problem was temporarily solved anyway. I returned to the corner where we had parked the bikes, and no Jana and the girls. I waited for a while and eventually they showed up. Apparently the girls suddenly both had to go potty, and it was not easy finding a place. The kids have not mastered the "asian style" toilets so they make us walk a long way to find "western style" toilets.

On returning, Aleeza was really sad to hear that I had a new bike for Jana. She had latched onto the idea that we were going to have to ditch the bikes downtown and take a bus home. We mounted our bikes and began the grind home. The pedestrian traffic was heavy, and much walking of bikes was needed that first mile or so. Eventually we got to the river, and we took the path for the last half of the ride which was a much better way to go.

By the time we got back to the apartment poor Aleeza had major blisters on her hands. Jana and I suffered little more than sore butts, but everyone was sweaty and tired. We felt that the girls both earned serious brownie points, though, because they only whined a little bit and the ride was very hot and very difficult. Aleeza became quite skilled at riding on those crowded sidewalks over the course of the day. (And Benna was a good scout on the back of my bike, looking back to see how far behind they were!)